4. Isolation, Starvation, Kindness, Serenity
-
Dusk came and brought a light layer of fog to the valley. I walked along the dirt path up the hill to the villa. Walking in the fog gave the night a strange brightness. I could hear the tall grass and the flowing water but I couldn’t see anything until I reached the villa and the light from the dining area spread through the fog like a blurry white beacon. There was a dining area and little store along with another larger building that looked like a large cabin and the natural bath behind a tall wooden alcove. Everything smelled like sulfur from the volcano.
I walked back through the fog to my tent, ate some bread for dinner, and read The Fall as I relieved myself of the load I had been carrying.
The next day I ascended the cliff behind the villa and made my way to the crack on the top of the mountain that was tirelessly spewing steam and sulfur into the air. The are around the crack was barren and covered with thick grey volcanic ash. The rock surrounding the crack was white and orange. I sat and admired the shape of the whirling steam before hiking to the highest point on this part of Japan. I spent most of the day on top of that mountain, admiring the view.
When I came back down I was exhausted but I was excited to have nothing left to do for the next couple days except lie around my valley and soak up the serenity. I had forgotten a stove so my bag of rice was useless. I climbed on the boulder next to my tent and ate what was left in my bag of peanuts. Later, I decided to go take a bath and relaxed in a small bath full of natural spring water, heated by the volcano. I stripped off my clothes and spread out in the sulfuric water and purged my thoughts of all excess. A Japanese man and his small child came in a little later. He told his kid to stop splashing. I went and lay naked on the patio and stared at the mountainous backdrop, listening to the flowing water below the deck.
Around dinner time I started getting hungry so I went to the dining area and asked how much dinner was.
“Sorry, dinner is only for people staying here.”
“Okay. You guys don’t happen to sell camping stoves do you?”
“No, sorry.”
“Well, let me see what kind of stuff you have for sale.”
He led me to the small store. Their selection fit behind a small glass case and consisted of some instant ramen, trail-mix, various small sweets and snacks, and a some bread.
“Are you sure you can’t let me eat dinner? I came to the mountain but don’t have any food since I forgot my stove.”
“Sorry, there’s no way.”
“Cool. I’ll take some bread then.”
I paid and went back to my tent, ate bread again for dinner, and read The Fall as I relieved myself of the load I had been carrying.
The next morning I woke up and felt fresh. The sky was clear again and the flowing lake of tall golden grass outside my tent poured through the valley. I didn’t have any real food so I decided I would live off bread and chocolate from the store for the next couple days. I walked to the wooded bridge on the path to the villa, and laid down on the sand next to the water, leaning on a rock. I pulled out my journal but I didn’t write anything. I watched the water flowing under the bridge and breathed deep. A spider crawled along a mossy rock near my leg. The air was still chilly from the morning and I walked to the villa to bathe in the volcanic spring. Some of my best moments of clarity have been while soaking in Japanese hot springs. As I rested with my head tilted back on the edge of a rock I felt a few more pieces of the puzzle click into place.
I left the bath, went and bought a coke for energy, and sat cross-legged on a platform next to the villa’s stream. I sat there for 30 minutes looking out over the valley like it was my own personal domain.
I walked to the store to see about buying enough food to last me one more day in the valley. When I showed up in the doorway the same guy from the night before rushed behind the counter, grabbed a plastic sack full of store goods, and handed it too me while looking over his shoulder.
“Here, take this.”
“What?”
“Take it. I felt bad about last night.”
“No, I’ll buy it. How much?”
“No, it’s for you. I know that you don’t have any food. This place is too expensive anyways. Besides, you came all the way here from America and I want you to think well of Japan. I’m sorry that this is all I can do. “
He pushes the bag into me.
“You should get out of here so I don’t get in trouble.”
“Thank you.”
“I wish I could do more.”
“Thank you.”
It was enough food to last through the rest of the day and tomorrow morning. I went back to the wooden bridge and stretched out on the sand next to the cold water to eat a piece of bread and some carrot juice from the bag the guy gave me and thought about what it meant to be given something. I had nothing to offer him in return. At once I was grateful but I also knew that I couldn’t go back to that store and buy something in good conscience. He gave me free food out of kindness without realizing that he had barred me from returning or staying in the valley longer than his food would last. I knew I would have to leave the next morning.
I spent the rest of the day wandering around the soft grassy campsite, away from the villa, spending my time writing in my journal, reading Camus, and looking out at the landscape, admiring it like the painting it was.
I left the secluded serenity of that valley the next morning, walked down the mountain, ate a hamburger, and spent the next few days wandering around the mountains and volcanos of Kyushu by car.
Posted in Writings